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This drain repair is a result of a clogged kitchen sink repair. One break leads to another. It goes south pretty quick but we got er done. Every day plumbing …

Verona NJ Plumber




  • Very good video, Realistic. I know it's for real. Thanks
    I like a man that loves his job. You're a good plumber. You should have had CB2 cut that pipe. That what apprentices are for.

  • If Im being honest, it didnt look like you were asking CB2 to do a whole lot. I know editing and all but, I've worked with plumbers who you literally had to run to keep up with their orders, so IMO CB2 looked like he had it pretty good outside of that hole.


  • Hey , your lucky , ever have someone promise NOT to use the bowl until AFTER you finish RECONNECTING the big black pipe in their basement ? Shit happens

  • I really think you're past the hard part I think with some careful surgery with the rotary hammer you can take that concrete out and remove the lead pipe and go back with a new one just pulled the toilet what's a new toilet flange you should be good

  • Chuck, what causes cast to crack and splinter?
    And speaking of cast, did a repair awhile back on some 4".
    Took out a long section, then had to cut off another 18".
    Used a hand me down snap cutter. That piece almost took my brothers head off standing 6'
    Away. Lesson learned, Dont ya just love those new sawzall blades.
    Tell CB, you expect to get an occasional bath from the homeowner, but not his own son..

  • probably 2 part "epoxy" in a tube, just break/cut off chunk, mix away and plaster it on and around the leak after cleaning and roughing with with a stiff wire brush by hand, dont want to make lead dust with power tools. **forgot holding the patch tight in place with piece of old inner tube or rubber strap. regular liquid epoxy is usually too thin and would require fiberglass matting and many coats to keep it where you want it and not dripped off on the floor.
    you're brave, I'd have spent an hour putting 2×4 bracing screwed together everywhere up to the floor joists and more so nothing could move until after cutting and brace removal on the bad section, all the vibration is sure a killer and issue finder! a helper holding tight from the sides works well to dampen it.

  • U really gotta get cb2 back… u see the comercial for flex seal the black rubber spray.. i bet that would work… also i seen roofing mesh and roof muck used for temp patches on lead and cast..

  • Yea, I would just patch the lead with a 2 part epoxy. Nothing is perfect on old houses. Would supporting the cast pipe with some bricks and shims help keep it from dropping? Or was it just old junk that was going to break eventually?

  • This is why I like my 1923 craftsman bungalow. Plumbing is exposed under the floor in the basement, under the attic stairs, from an access door in the bedroom closet, or under the kitchen sink.

  • Yep…cast iron…as soon as you touch it, you're chasing the leaks all over the place. I'd epoxy or (don't laugh) flex tape it that hoe on the lead. Unfortunately, the customer needs a bath room remodel for that mess to get straighten out. CB2…pay attention son…we don't open faucets on open drain lines!!

  • Chuck I think that crawl space they could have made that crawl space smaller.  What a nightmare.  From my experience areas like that never get really taken care of properly.  All kinds of stuff is left behind and done half ass.  Sorry number 2 man drenched the old man.  good thing it wasn't from the toilet.  CB2's buying lunch!

  • When I was an apprentice my plumber mechanic told me to anticipate his next move and to think of the next part he would need to continue to pipe. He would turn around and I had to have the proper part or fitting without him waiting. It keeps the apprentice's mind busy to think ahead and focused instead of him waiting for orders and daydreaming of his week end.

  • Chuckie you meed to breal out tje herenbone gloves and wipe some new lead on that bend. My high school plumbing teacher taught me how to make lead bends so if i ever needed to repair them i knew how too.
    Where im from they dont allow us to ise ferncos with 2 bands any.more. They have to have a full stainless shielded band. Most likley becaise of hack fly by night wanna be plumbers.

  • ive never worked on a lead bend and cant really relate but to fix it I would try an apoxy called sika flex. its pretty good stuff, ive put some on a 2×4 and stuck it on a concrete wall. held it for 10 minutes and came back the next day, had to grind the concrete cause it was never coming off. had a 4ft pry bar couldn't bust the 2×4 off. I used it on a trough drain to hold the sections together, never came apart and never leaked. they come in silicone tubes so id get that and some popsicle sticks and giver a thick smear job probably coat the whole bend. I would assume the customer doesn't want to dump a bunch of money into replacing that lead bend so If it was me Id try apoxy first if the leaks on the lead.

    as for ferncos, ferncos kick ass. it would be nice if u can replace the whole job and make a nice pay cheque out of it but sometimes the customers cheap so it becomes patch city and you need a pair of ferncos. no need to re invent the wheel here. ive also never used a zip hanger in my life, gonna have to look into this.

  • chuck I always carry a roll of 3mil 12' x 100' roll of plastic on my van. Just some FYI. And Milwaukee makes a carbide tooth sawzall blade called the torch, its just as good a diablo, my opinion its better. Also the make a liquid called Magic Lead make by Oatey or a caulking tube called Plastic Seal #25215 made by Hercules for lead joints that leak. You can purchase them at your local Ace Hardware store.

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